The second lunar month is the season of bumper flying fish as a promise between the sea and people. Therefore, flying fish can be seen everywhere in fishing ports during this season. Regardless of the type, flying fish is still a source of addiction for Central Viet Nam locals owing to its green shiny skin, firm, white, sweet flesh, and a large quantity that lasts from early spring to late summer.

Crew members of the vessel DNa 90426 in Nai Hien Dong Ward, Son Tra District unload flying fish from the vessel’s hold to a fishing wharf. Photo: N.H

Like a promise between the sea and people…

At 3:00 am every morning, Ngo Quyen street has been still under "sleepy" condition. A few motorbikes carrying buckets, brasses, and barrels occasionally flashed past like a long dark streak. Those are the women going to the fishing wharf early to attend the early market session at breaking dawn.

Turning towards the Thuan Phuoc Bridge, the Tho Quang fishing wharf gradually appears along with the vibrant sound of a new working day as the night faded and the sun was about to dawn.

The strong, salty smell of the sea seems to permeate each person carrying fish or pushing a cart to take fish from vessels that have just docked.

Flying fish season lasts from the second month of the lunar calendar till the end of summer with countless flying fish swimming in flocks underwater.

As long as they hear the sound of a ship from afar, each school of fish was startled and fly above the water with their fins spreading out like wings to show off their silver scales glittering under the pink apricot light.

Occasionally, a few with limp bellies full of eggs free-fall and hit the deck of the vessel. Their wings flutter and want to fly, but end up lying on the deck in regret for the blue sky and the wide sea.

After half a month of floating at sea, ship DNa 90426 of Captain Hua Chau residing in Nai Hien Dong Ward, Son Tra District has docked with nearly 4 tons of flying fish.

From the ship's hold, baskets of fish were brought up and loaded into the tricycles waiting on the wharf and being ready to head to distant markets.

Right at the wharf, some fishing traders, after receiving fish from the tricycles, took advantage of empty plots of land to sell fish for motorcyclists to bring back to sell in local markets. Loads of other vessels parked close together around the wharf also joined the rhythm of labour in the bright, pink morning light.

Some people even sell flying fish right at Tho Quang fishing wharf in Son Tra District. Photo: N.H

Bearing bold taste of home

The price of flying fish is relatively cheap compared to other fish so it was still considered a "national" fish or food for all different classes in society. In the countryside, people are very fond of flying fish due to its delicious taste.

Indeed, people in the Central region have still considered flying fish as a dear dish bolding a strong hometown flavour so they have devised dozens of ways to prepare it, such as flying fish cooked in soup with sour-soup creeper, young watermelon, bitter melon; flying fish braised with eggplant, young jackfruit; fried flying fish with lemongrass and turmeric; grilled flying fish.

Locals also prolong the aftertaste of flying fish in different ways such as salting or drying. Soaking the fish in concentrated saltwater to absorb the salty taste can keep the quality of fish for a long time. Nearly a hundred years ago, fishermen going fishing for a long time often brought salt with them to salt fish. This was a traditional way of preserving fish to keep it from going bad. However, the dish of salted flying fish has now become...rare.

It is said that salted flying fish is a fish dish for the poor so it's very cheap and salty to the point of "twisting your tongue". Therefore, it must be soaked and washed in hot water to reduce the saltiness before being cooked.

On cold winter days, a pot of flying fish braised with sugar, chilli, pepper and onions, served with boiled sweet potato vegetables can blow away a big pot of hot rice. A little more sophisticated is the flying fish stewed with duck eggs and diced pork belly served with herbs, which is considered no less than other famous delicacies.

Sometimes it's simpler as enjoying a dish of dried or grilled flying fish served with chilli garlic fish sauce while sipping a cup of rice wine with an old friend to discuss all sorts of things in heaven and earth.

Flying fish season…

The season of flying fish has just begun as if reminding the people of Quang Nam- Da Nang's homeland of all kinds of dishes to remember, to crave, to linger. In the past, it was dificult to bring fresh fish to remote areas. Therefore, there was a type of dried salted flying fish that was curled up like a firewood stick for a long time and was often hung by the highlanders on the kitchen wall.

For the time being, modern vessels have a cellar containing several large blocks of ice so no one salts flying fish anymore. Therefore, if anyone wants to eat that dish to remember the difficult days, they have to endure it.

As shared by Captain Hua "A short sea trip is about 15 days and a long one is nearly a month. Fishermen like us are more concerned about the "price storm" inshore than storms at sea. Recently, increasing gasoline price has affected the price of goods while the price of flying fish is just over half compares to the beginning of the season. The paradox is that what is in season will drop in price so it is good to tie the capital.

Now that the third lunar month has begun, the weather is sunnier, and the flying fish season is at its peak. Therefore, fishing vessels owners have taken advantage of a day or two off to prepare for a new trip heading out to sea with hundreds of misses and thousands of love with flying fish in the ocean.

Reporting by NHU HANH- Translating by T.VY