As if to comfort and console those who cherish the biting cold, the chilly winds, and the drizzling rain, winter dishes seem like gifts bestowed by nature. Only when enjoyed in the crisp, cool air do their flavors linger in a way that nothing else on earth can compare.

On winter days, young people savor the rustic street snacks such as grilled corn and roasted sweet potatoes on cozy little street corners. Photo: T.V

Winter is making its way through every corner of the city, bringing with it a craving for dishes like beef noodle soup, roasted sweet potatoes, grilled corn, grilled eggs, and sizzling pancakes. These familiar flavors seem etched into the memories of everyone. Sometimes, a simple dish can become part of someone’s cherished story, evoking unforgettable memories. That’s why people choose to indulge—not just to satisfy their senses but also to rekindle nostalgic moments from the past.

1. These past few days, as winter settles into the streets and early morning mist lingers on the leaves along the roadside, I found myself visiting Bun Cui—a familiar noodle shop on Phan Huy Chu Street (An Hai Tay Ward, Son Tra District). Some might wonder why beef noodle soup, a dish enjoyed year-round, feels different to me in winter. However, for me, when savouring it in the chilly season, it carries a unique flavor all its own...

When people think of beef noodle soup, they immediately associate it with the imperial land of Hue. However, here in this coastal city, there’s a beef noodle shop where the flavors are seasoned by a true Hue native. Standing beside the simmering pot of broth, rich with fragrant steam and the smoky scent of firewood, Phan Thi Thu Trinh (30 years old), the daughter of Bun Cui shop owner, shared that her family hails from An Cuu Ward (Hue City) and has a long-standing tradition of preparing beef noodle soup.

In the past, her mother took on various jobs before eventually inheriting the craft of making beef noodle soup from her two older sisters. Now, Bun Cui shop has been around for over 25 years. The name “Bun Cui” comes from the fact that the shop uses firewood to cook, which enhances both the aroma and flavor of the dish. The shop doesn’t follow any special recipe, and it relies on fresh ingredients and the wholehearted dedication of the cook. Cooking with firewood can be quite hot during the summer, but in the winter, it brings a cozy warmth. Perhaps for this reason, the shop typically sells 70-80kg of noodles daily, but during winter, that number rises to 120kg. It seems that the cold weather heightens the appetite, making the flavors even more delightful and leaving customers falling in love with the dish all over again.

"Every day, my mother and I wake up at 1 a.m. to prepare the ingredients. After prepping, we simmer the broth for 3 hours before we start selling. It can be said that cooking with firewood is much harder and hotter than using electricity or coal because the cook has to tend to the fire constantly, adding or reducing wood as needed. At first, we have to boil the broth on a high flame, then lower it and let it simmer until it reaches the right flavor. If the fire is too high or too low, the broth won't have the desired taste. It's hard work, but as soon as a customer nods in approval after eating, it gives us the motivation to keep going," Ms. Trinh said with a smile.

I feel that eating a bowl of beef noodle soup in Bun Cui shop in the early winter morning is like a gift from nature. The bowl of noodles, served steaming with aromatic smoke rising, is full and neatly presented. The noodles are soft but not mushy, the broth rich in flavor yet not overpowering, accompanied by fresh herbs, chili, lime, and pickled onions. Every time I eat, my eyes sting from the smoky aroma of the firewood, which infuses every bite of meat. It’s a scent that takes me back to my childhood, by the fire with my grandmother and mother on those cold winter days—something hard to find in the hustle and bustle of the city, yet Bun Cui brings me back to those memories.

Like me, Mr. Tran Quang Vinh (40 years old, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son District) shared that although he lives far away, he visits Bun Cui every day to enjoy the dish. He said that he has tried beef noodle soup in many places, but when he comes to Bun Cui, perhaps the owner has adjusted the flavors to suit the general taste. He finds the broth light and clear, not too rich but perfectly balanced from the first bite to the last. He believes that to create a dish that “hooks” customers, it takes more than just one effort—it requires hundreds, or even a lifetime of dedication. The owner must carefully study the preparation process and pour great passion into every bowl of noodles.

2. At weekend, as I strolled through the streets in the late afternoon, I suddenly noticed that familiar roadside stalls had set up hot charcoal grills, roasting sweet potatoes, corn, eggs... accompanied by fish sauce, fried onion oil, and chili powder, all filling the air with a fragrant aroma that wafted down the street. These humble street foods were undoubtedly signaling the arrival of winter.

Mrs. Nguyen Thi Huong, the owner of a roasted corn and sweet potato stall on Nui Thanh Street (Hoa Cuong Bac Ward, Hai Chau District), chatted with me while holding a fan in her hand and constantly turning golden, charred corn on the grill. She excitedly shared that, during peak times, she and her husband start preparing at 2 p.m. to ensure they have everything ready for the evening rush.

She has been running the stall for five years now, so she understands that her customers prefer roasted sweet potatoes and sticky corn. However, to cater to different tastes, she also offers American corn. Some customers prefer their corn to be soft, while others like it firmer, so she adjusts her grilling method accordingly. In recent years, in addition to corn and sweet potatoes, she has added roasted chicken eggs to the menu, which has attracted many customers because of the unique taste when paired with Vietnamese coriander and a tangy chili-lime dipping sauce. All the ingredients—corn, sweet potatoes, and eggs—are sourced from trusted suppliers in Quang Nam to ensure quality.

When I asked about her grilling method, Mrs. Hương seemed to understand my curiosity and smiled. She explained that roasting chicken eggs only takes about ten minutes. However, corn and sweet potatoes take longer, around twenty minutes, and the embers mustn’t be too hot. Otherwise, the outside will burn while the inside remains raw. To save time for her customers, she roasts in two stages: first, she lightly grills them over the fire to retain the heat, and then she grills them over a smaller flame to make the sweet potatoes soft and caramelized, and the corn similarly. In addition to the pre-grilled corn, she also offers fresh corn and sweet potatoes for customers who prefer to grill them directly, though this takes considerably longer.

Looking at the sweet potatoes and the hot roasted corn, I am filled with nostalgia and remember my childhood during the lean seasons and the cold winter days. Back then, corn and sweet potatoes were staples that my mother kept stored in the small kitchen corner, and they would guide us through those lean winters. Now, as winter comes again, I am filled with countless memories of the image of my family gathering around corn and potatoes, in a time of hardship but full of happiness and warmth.

Reporting by TUONG VY – Translating by HONG VAN