We departed from the upper reaches of Cu De River and followed the water to the downstream of Nam O Bay. Along this 38-kilometer waterway, there are stretches of calm flat water, rugged rocky slopes, wide expanses, and narrow passages. Yet, with the completion of transportation infrastructure connecting the upper reaches, lower reaches, and the city center, the river now dons a revitalized appearance.

Nam O - where Cu De River flows into the sea. Photo: XUAN SON

In particular, the tourism picture of the upstream Cu De River with the harmony between natural landscape and cultural values ​​has been shaped by the leaders of Hoa Vang district in the strategy for developing community ecotourism until 2025, with a vision to 2030.

From Bach Ma to Xuan Duong

"Facing the sunrise, Lo Hac bows with grace / To the east, Tra Son stands as a shield in place / Behind to the west, Xuan Son gleams with radiant embrace."

This is the description of Mount Lo Hac and Mount Xuan Son, extracted from the eulogy for the ancestral pioneer Trieu Co of Nam O Village (Hoa Hiep Nam Ward, Lien Chieu District) and written in the first half of the 19^th century. It was recorded by Dang Dung, known as the "living historian" of the ancient land at the foot of Hai Van Pass in his book “Nam O and Its Tales” (published by Da Nang Publishing House, 2022). According to Dang Dung, Xuan Son is the present-day Xuan Duong Mountain, while Lo Hac is another name for Nam O Cape jutting into the sea. Though their forms have changed over time, the two mountains still stand, gazing out over Nam O Bay where Cu De River meets the sea—marking the lower reaches of a river that is steeped in ancient stories and legends.

According to the History of Lien Chieu District Party Committee, Cu De River estuary used to be a bustling hub, and its activities is regarded as "boats below, goods above", serving as a vital connection between the mountainous and coastal regions of the northwest Hoa Vang district. This activity gave rise to the Nam O trading center, renowned in its time. Surrounding the center are historical landmarks from the past: Con Dinh, Con Dau, Da Ba, Nui Cam, Thuy Tu Bridge, Xuan Duong Cham Tower, and Nam O Historical Complex, which includes Nam O Communal House, Lang Ong, Am Linh Temple, Nam O Cemetery, Lieu Hanh Shrine, Bo Bo Shrine, and Lang Well.

From the lower reaches, visitors can cast their gaze toward the mist-covered mountain peak in the northwest of the city. That is the majestic Trường Sơn range, with the Bach Ma ridge forming the source of the northern branch of the Cu De River. Meanwhile, the southern branch originates from the forests of Dong Giang in Quang Nam Province. These two branches converge at Sap Bridge in Vung Bot stream, spanning Ta Lang and Gian Bi hamlets of Hoa Bac Commune (Hoa Vang District), before flowing toward the market town located about 5 kilometers from the foot of Hai Van Pass.

Right at the vestige of Sap bridge, we once followed Bui Hoai Vu—a member of Co Tu community from the forests of Hoa Bac—wading through the waters of Vung Bot and Khe Duong streams, eventually visiting village elder Bui Van Sieng in Gian Bi Hamlet.

In the conversation with Vu and elder Sieng on that day, there were heartfelt concerns about preserving the endemic Nien fish, a local delicacy from the upper reaches of Cu De River, and safeguarding the purity of its waters. Blessed by nature, Cu De River has, for generations, provided Co Tu people and communities along its banks with nature's gifts: Nien fish, river snails, river vermicelli, and freshwater shrimp.

The river irrigates the land, fostering the growth of plants and fruits, and sustains livestock like chickens and pigs. Ms. Do Thi Huyen Tram, Director of Hoa Bac Ecological Agriculture and Community Tourism Cooperative, emphasized the story of “living in harmony with the forest” in her hometown of Hoa Bac. She noted that as the Cu De River flows from natural forests, providing irrigation, drinking water, and livelihoods, the community must value and protect nature, including this vital river.

The river in transformation

The "Water Retention Hills" model has been implemented by the Hoa Bac Cooperative for Ecological Agriculture and Community Tourism to preserve the balance of the Cu De River amidst human impacts. Alongside this, the people of Hoa Bac actively collaborate with Ba Na - Nui Chua Special-use Forest Management Board in protecting the forests. They also support the policy of the city in encouraging the cultivation of large timber trees and reforestation, as outlined in Resolution No. 254/2019/NQ-HĐND of the Municipal People’s Council.

Talking about the river's transformation thanks to tourism, Dinh Van Hin, the head of Ta Lang Village, shared that with the completion of the well-paved DT601 road running along Cu De River, an increasing number of tourist groups from the city center came to visit the area. Some young travelers wake up at 4 am just to catch the dreamy clouds drifting near Mui Trau Tunnel. Many others find joy in experiencing Co Tu culture the Cu De River, including the Sky Offering dance (tung tung da da), watching gong performances, enjoying sweet aroma of ta vat wine, and savoring mountain specialties. Others prefer to check in or camp amidst the poetic landscapes.

As the transportation infrastructure connecting the river’s upstream, downstream, and the city center was completed, Cu De River embraced a new identity. Notably, the tourism landscape in the river’s upstream area, characterized by the harmony of natural scenery and cultural values, has been shaped by Hoa Vang District leaders as a part of their strategy to develop community-based eco-tourism.

At the lower reaches of the river, we heard from officials of the Lien Chieu District Culture and Sports Department about the positive outcomes following the completion of the restoration of the Nam O Heritage Complex, which was funded with over 25 billion VND. This has significantly contributed to tourism activities and cultural promotion in the area. Additionally, Lien Chieu District People’s Committee has implemented various initiatives to establish tourism packages under Nam O Community Tourism Development Project and introduce several new products. The local authorities, in collaboration with the Department of Tourism, have focused on promoting and introducing historical and cultural sites, including Nam O fish sauce craft village, while connecting businesses to develop and capitalize on tourism products.

The river of the future

According to the Department of Tourism, Cu De River is included in the development plan of Da Nang’s domestic tourism by 2030, with a vision extending to 2045. In its envisioned future, Cu De - Truong Dinh river route is set to become part of the city’s western ecological tourism space with featuring areas such as Lang Van, Khe Ram, and the reservoir zone combining water storage and tourism services (South of Bac River area). These destinations will be connected via Cu De River and various tourism sites along its course, including Son Tra Islet (Hon Chao). Under this plan, five inland waterway piers are being proposed along the route. Additionally, a Cu De river tourist route to Da Nang Bay - Hon Chao - Son Tra Peninsula area is formed. The river will also support a waterway tourism route connecting Hoa Vang District with ecological, agricultural, and rural destinations along its banks. Then, a waterway tourist route on Cu De river connecting Hoa Vang district is exploited, associated with ecological, agricultural and rural destinations.

While the potential is significant, challenges remain. Investment in the development of inland waterway tourism routes is still limited and not synchronous. For instance, there is a shortage of boats and supporting infrastructure such as docks, as well as a lack of services connecting points along the river. In the near term, the city is focusing on attracting investment and boosting tourism activities, specifically by implementing the Inland Waterway Tourism Development Plan for the 2024–2025 period.

In the next phase, the City People's Committee will continue to review and direct relevant departments, agencies, and local authorities to carry out tasks and solutions to quickly bring these inland waterway tourism routes into operation. The aim is to serve visitors and establish these as innovative tourism products.

Reporting by XUAN SON – Translating by HONG VAN