Perhaps nowhere else is quite like Nam O-a small fishing village nestled at the foot of Hai Van Mountain, steadfast despite the ever-changing times. Beyond its modest size, this coastal village holds layers of history, where stories from the past remain vividly alive in the memories of its people.

The annual ancestral worship ceremony of Nam O Village at Nam O Communal House. Photo: T.Y.

Traces of the past

Following the narrow path that winds along the Nam O coastline, one can easily encounter ancient, moss-covered shrines, silent witnesses to the village’s 700-year-old history of settlement and cultivation. Mr. Le Van Cuu, head of the Nam O peace-seeking and ancestral worship ceremonies, describes this as sacred land. Near the Nam O rocky shore, about a hundred steps from the water’s edge, lies a revered tomb known locally as the Tomb of the Founding Ancestor. Enclosed by a low stone wall, the tomb is guarded by two tiger statues, positioned at the entrance in a posture of eternal vigilance. At the center of the courtyard stands an incense burner and a stele inscribed with the words: "Hoa O Commune respectfully venerates the Forefather’s Spirit." Pointing to the inscription, Mr. Cuu explains that "Hoa O" was the ancient name of Nam O Village.

Villagers believe that Nam O's founding ancestor was a loyal general of the Tran dynasty who sacrificed himself during the daring mission to rescue Princess Huyen Tran from the ritual of suicide following her husband’s death in the year Dinh Mui (1307). According to legend, upon reaching Nam O, the rescue fleet was ambushed by Champa forces. At this critical moment, the devoted general made a fateful decision—he stayed behind in Nam O to lead 200 troops in a fierce battle, holding off the enemy so that General Tran Khac Chung could navigate a small boat and safely escort Princess Huyen Tran back to Dai Viet.

To honor the memory of their fallen commander, the villagers buried him with reverence, built a shrine, and bestowed upon him the title of "Tien Hien"—the revered founding ancestor of Nam O. Additionally, according to records preserved by the Nam O Village Ancestral Council, the Tien Hien Tomb also serves as a symbolic altar to honor past village chiefs. Over generations, the descendants have continued to restore and preserve the site, holding an annual memorial ceremony on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month. During this solemn occasion, an ancient couplet, passed down through generations, is recited: "Co van loi u, tam cap vu mon, ninh kien ha trung thien ly / Chiem phong lang u, ky trung hoang hai, vinh khang thon tuc thon kinh." (A rough translation: "The thunderclouds of old, after countless storms, gaze upon the endless horizon / The Cham winds howl, the sea roars in longing, yet the steadfast heart awaits to swallow the whale.")

Within the "Nam O That Bao" (The Seven Treasures of Nam O), which were collectively designated as municipal heritage sites in 2020, three sacred landmarks—Whale Temple, Lang Well, and Soul Shrine—stand side by side along the coastline, forming a "spiritual triad." According to Mr. Cuu, the Whale Temple was built by the villagers atop an ancient Cham shrine dedicated to the Sea God, transforming it into a sacred place of worship for the Nam Hai God. Right next to the temple lies Lang Well, a centuries-old Cham well made of stone, which continues to provide crystal-clear, refreshing water throughout the year.

North of the Whale Temple stands the Soul Shrine, a sacred site dedicated to honoring the fallen warriors who perished in the first battle against the French-Spanish allied invasion of Da Nang in 1858. Beyond its historical significance, the Soul Shrine is also tied to an old maritime belief. Among fishermen, the greatest taboo when setting sail is dropping an item into the sea. According to tradition, if a fisherman accidentally loses something overboard, he must, upon returning to shore, visit the Soul Shrine. There, he performs a ritual: drawing the lost item on paper, making an offering, and then bringing it to the shore to burn it to ashes. This ceremony is believed to ward off bad luck for fishermen.

The diversity of Mother Goddess Worship

Ancient tales whispered among Nam O’s rugged waves not only recount the legacies of the ancestors but also carry echoes of folklore deeply woven into the cultural and spiritual life of coastal dwellers. Among these sacred sites, Lady Lieu Hanh Shrine, dedicated to Lady Lieu Hanh—one of Vietnam’s Four Immortals—stands as one of the most revered shrines in this fishing village. Perched on an elevated plot of land facing the sea.

Living next to the shrine, Mrs. Nguyen Thi Mai (71 years old) recalls that since ancient times, the shrine has been a sacred place where villagers come to offer prayers whenever their families face significant matters. Fishermen, before setting sail, often stop by the shrine to burn incense, seeking calm seas and safe journeys. Every year, on the annual festival day dedicated to Lady Lieu Hanh, the entire village gathers to chant an ancient ceremonial hymn, recounting her virtues and praying for favorable weather, bountiful catches, and the well-being of the community.

The worship of Mother Lieu Hanh in Nam O dates back to the 17^th century, when the small village began to take shape and flourish. According to legend, during a year of prolonged drought, the villagers suffered greatly as crop failures and rough seas brought hardship. Fishing boats venturing out were repeatedly struck by misfortune. One night, the village's chief elder had a dream in which a woman dressed in white appeared and told him: "Build a shrine by the shore, keep incense burning day and night, and the land and sky will be at peace."

Believing in the omen, the villagers gathered to discuss, contributing both effort and resources to build the shrine. From that moment on, the skies over Nam O seemed to be gentler, the waves became less fierce, and the winds and rains were more harmonious. The annual ceremony honoring the Mother Goddess became an indispensable spiritual tradition for the local people.

In this land, Nam O, Xuan Thieu, and Xuan Duong were once part of a single village known as Hoa O – Xuan Son, united by the principle of “three shared spaces”: a common communal house, a shared shrine, and a joint pagoda. Among these sacred sites stands Lady Bo Bo Shrine, an ancient shrine over 150 years old, serving as a silent witness to the history and culture of the region.

Mr. Le Thoi, the caretaker responsible for the incense offerings at the ancient shrine, shared that Lady Bo Bo is a Cham deity who watches over riverine and coastal communities. This belief is reflected in a traditional chant: “If the boat sails inland,/ We pray to the Lady for the eastern wind, / Let my boat go first, and your husband’s boat follow after./ If the boat sails out to sea,/ We pray to the Lady for the southern breeze,/ Let my boat go first, and your husband’s boat follow after.” According to village elders, the worship of Lady Bo Bo symbolizes the cultural fusion between Vietnamese and Cham traditions through Mother Goddess beliefs. The ancients believed that Lady Bo Bo was a sacred guardian spirit, protecting the villagers from natural disasters and treacherous waves, while also blessing them with bountiful harvests and abundant catches from the sea.

According to Mr. Thoi, the worship of Mother Goddesses is influenced by Taoism and Buddhism, particularly the belief in powerful female deities who bring salvation to humankind. Additionally, the cultural blending of Cham and Vietnamese spiritual traditions has given Nam O a unique religious identity. "When the Vietnamese settled in this land, they embraced indigenous beliefs, gradually adapting them to their own spiritual practices. Over time, this transformation gave rise to the diverse Mother Goddess worship system we see today," Mr. Thoi explained.

Closely linked to these shrines is the legend of Ca Ong—the great whale revered by fishermen as the guardian spirit of the sea. These ancient tales are deeply embedded in the spiritual and cultural fabric of Nam O’s coastal community. They not only shape the region’s distinct cultural identity but also serve as a bridge between past and present, reminding future generations of their ancestral heritage and deep-rooted traditions.

As Mr. Huynh Dinh Quoc Thien, Director of Da Nang Museum, once analyzed, the legends of Ca Ong, the ancestral graves, and the Mother Goddess worship, along with the associated rituals in Nam O, vividly reflect the spiritual life of coastal communities. These beliefs are not just about seeking divine protection and blessings but also represent a deep expression of gratitude toward nature and the sea. It is this cultural essence that shapes the unique identity of Nam O fishing village—a land rich in traditions, where spirituality, history, and daily life are deeply intertwined.

Reporting by TIEU YEN - Translating by HONG VAN