Throughout the long history of the nation, despite numerous cultural exchanges and transformations, the Vietnamese ao dai has remained a timeless symbol of quintessence unmatched by any other traditional attire. The ao dai is a perfect blend of modesty and allure, modernity and tradition, grace and strength. It continues to serve as an endless source of inspiration for tailors and designers, who constantly innovate to celebrate its beauty.

At the age of 85, Mrs. Van Ha, the wife of artisan Van Ha, still passionately devotes herself to tailoring and cherishes her deep love for the ao dai. Photo: T.V.

Weaving smiles for life

For those born and raised in Da Nang during the 1960s, the name of artisan Nguyen Van Ha was synonymous with excellence in tailoring and he possessed an ao dai shop on Pham Hong Thai Street (Hai Chau District). Now, after 65 years of building the brand, Van Ha Tailor Shop remains a trusted choice for ao dai tailored for their most significant moments. In conversation, Mrs. Do Thi Hue, the artisan’s wife (born in 1939 and affectionately known as Mrs. Van Ha), shared that her husband passed away 10 years ago. Today, she and their four children are inheriting the craftsmanship of artisan Van Ha.

Sipping a steaming cup of tea, Mrs. Van Ha reminisced about her late husband and herself with heartfelt candor. Artisan Van Ha was born and raised in the village of Nhon Tho 1 (Hoa Phuoc Commune, Hoa Vang District). At the age of 15, he left his hometown and went to Hue to learn how to sew suits and ao dai. Mrs. Van Ha was also a student in the same tailoring class. Later, the two gradually fell in love and became husband and wife.

By 1960, the couple had left Hue and moved to Da Nang, where they opened their first ao dai tailoring shop on Pham Hong Thai Street. During that period, most tailoring shops focused on suits, as ao dai had a smaller clientele, primarily relying on word-of-mouth recommendations from familiar customers. the number of customers increased, and after the liberation day, the couple switched completely to tailoring ao dai. In those days, lacking the means to hire staff, Mrs. Van Ha would cradle her young child while taking measurements, while her husband focused on cutting and sewing. They would often alternate roles when he measured and she cut and sewed. Many nights, their shop stayed brightly lit until two or three in the morning, and the sewing machine ran steadily. For the Van Ha couple, their greatest success lay in the satisfaction of their customers.

“At the beginning, we faced many challenges,” shared Mrs. Van Ha. “There were times when customers were disappointed because the products didn’t meet their expectations or lacked the desired style and highlights. Those experiences became valuable lessons for us. We came to understand that every product we create must come not only from skilled hands but also from the sincerity of the tailor. When you infuse your work with heart, passion, and dedication, you craft pieces that are not only unique but also full of emotion and character.”

It would not be an overstatement to say that artisan Van Ha seemed to be born to "tailor" the ao dai, enhancing the beauty of women. His reputation is widespread both domestically and internationally. For his clients, simply visiting Van Ha meant their physical imperfections would fade away, thanks to his remarkable ability to blend and refine every stitch, every panel—from the front flaps to the back, from the neckline to the waistline. His creations were like harmonious works of art, celebrating and accentuating the most exquisite features of the wearer.

Indeed, I had the chance to wear an ao dai crafted by artisan Van Ha, and it truly lived up to its reputation. Each ao dai bore its own distinct color, tone, and personality—a unique creation that stood the test of time. I realized that the same fabric, stitches, and measurements, when touched by the hands of Van Ha, transformed from a lifeless piece of cloth into a soulful garment with a graceful ao dai, flattering the figure and minimizing defects with the seams. It can be said that each ao dai, shaped and perfected by Van Ha, is the culmination of an intellectual, heartfelt labour—an embodiment of his life’s experiences and dedication to his craft.

Mrs. Van Ha continued sharing that her husband was famously meticulous, demanding, and perfectionistic in his work. Even during busy times with many customers, he insisted on personally measuring clients, carefully calculating every detail of their figures. In creating a beautiful ao dai, the measurement process is crucial, requiring precise consideration of any material adjustments during tailoring. This step greatly influences the final product, and a skilled tailor must have unique techniques. For instance, in crafting an ao dai, separating the seams at the chest and waist is one of Van Ha’s signature methods, which consistently impressed clients. Similarly, tailoring for shorter back required precise measurement and proportioning to achieve balance, while longer back called for distinct adjustments in both measurement and tailoring techniques.

In essence, it was both a natural talent and a deep sensitivity that allowed him to create ao dai that made anyone who wore them feel confident in every curve of their body. “Every night, he would dedicate his free time to explore and learn the best cutting techniques from renowned tailors both in Vietnam and abroad. He even studied medical literature about the human body, its strengths and flaws, to continuously refine and accumulate creative techniques over time. During his lifetime, he always told me and the children, “We don’t just make ao dai; we weave the most beautiful smiles for life.” It is this philosophy that has allowed our tailor shop to create its own distinct value and place in the world,” Mrs. Van Ha proudly shared.

To meet the growing demand from a wide range of customers, in addition to the traditional ao dai, designer Le Doan Hung (born 1993, Thanh Khe District), the owner of Tam Design, has developed a passion for modernizing the traditional ao dai. He is the designer behind the ao dai worn by Miss International 2024 Huynh Thi Thanh Thuy during her participation in Miss Vietnam 2022 pageant, as well as by Miss Vo Le Que Anh at Miss Grand 2024 competition and Runner-up Tran Nguyen Minh Thu in Miss Grand 2022 pageant.

Designer Le Doan Hung is firstly an amateur who transitioned from interior design to ao dai design, driven by his deep passion for this traditional garment. Every time he sees someone wearing an ao dai on the street, he feels joyful and excited. So, when he decided to switch to ao dai design, it felt like a bold move. While he still designs and creates traditional ao dai, his adventurous nature pushes him to experiment with creative combinations, designing new styles of ao dai while maintaining a minimalist, modern approach that stays true to the traditional essence.

"Designing traditional ao dai is already challenging, but reinventing this iconic garment is doubly difficult. It's not just about the shape and fashion, but also the materials, patterns, and embellishments. To make it more airy, romantic, and graceful, I cleverly combine the ao dai with effects like chiffon and mesh. Producing such designs requires higher costs. At times, I would like to give up because the returns didn’t match the high expenses, and the customer base is quite selective, with fierce competition in the market. However, I believe that with dedication and my passion for revitalizing the traditional ao dai, I can contribute to the ao dai market in the city and the country as a whole," said designer Le Doan Hung.

Designer Le Doan Hung shared that, unlike designing and tailoring traditional ao dai, in creating a modernized ao dai, the material may account for 70% of the success of design. After that, the patterns and measurements come into play. Specifically, each ao dai must be handcrafted 100%, which is very time-consuming. Moreover, if the design isn't eye-catching enough, he adds embellishments or hand embroidery. Currently, he specializes in designing ao dai with hand-embroidered patterns such as peacocks, dragons, phoenixes, lotus flowers, bamboo, or village temples, using various materials like silk, brocade, silk tafetta, organza, and silk chiffon. Additionally, he adds beadwork, sequins, and accessories like headpieces and hairpins.

“To break the mold in ao dai design, I am full of inspiration and put the images of tombs, palaces, and royal architecture in Hue, as well as patterns related to Vietnam’s culture and history. Therefore, beyond creating economic value, my greater ambition is for my designs to spread a meaningful message, encouraging young people to recognize and appreciate the traditional cultural values of our nation,” said designer Le Doan Hung.

 Reporting by TUONG VY – Translating by HONG VAN